If you live in one of those climates who has to endure heavy rains and damage to your home, we can help you water proof your home so that you don’t have to worry when it rains. One of the first things that you should do is caulk any cracks or leaks around windows or doors that would otherwise let the rain in. This is something that should be done every year. Hot sun in the summer can cause caulking to crack so before the rainy season hits then you should make your rounds.

Make a check of the trees that are on your property and pick up all of the dead branches and if you see any dead branches hanging, remove them before a storm hits with wind and these branches fall off. Another source of water build up is in the roof gutters, every three or four months you should clean out the gutters, leaves and branches could clog up the gutters and the water build up could actually rot out the roof making it susceptible for collapse.

If you have a swimming pool, try to lower the water level so when it rains the rainwater won’t overflow the pool area and cause some flooding. You should also check your sewer traps and make sure they plugged with check valves. These check valves will lead the water in only one direction so the water flows away from your home rather than inside of it. When you know you are expected a very heavy rain, if you have an automatic sprinkler, try to remember to turn off them off so you don’t flood out your lawn.

If you have a sump pump you should make sure it is working and you should have on hand sandbags and sand just in case you need them. Depending on where you live, fire departments will provide sandbags and you can go to the local masonry and buy some sand.

Any little bit helps when you are trying to protect your home even if it is from rain. Rain may not seem like a big deal but it can certainly do a lot of damage if you are not prepared. 

This may seem a bit difficult for some people but don’t let your imagination run away with you. Installing a toilet is not as hard as it seems. We can guide you step by step in helping you successfully install a toilet.

Step one: to remove the old toilet. Turn off the water that leads to the toilet. There is a valve that is located on a small pipe that runs in the bottom left side of the tank. Then flush the water to get rid of most of the water in the tank. If you forget this part you will end up with water everywhere.

Step two: Remove the tubing from the water supply that runs to the toilet tank. Take off the bolts in the bottom of the tank that connects the toilet to the tank.

Step three: take off the caps that are located on the bottom of the toilet  and also remove the toilet flanges, you may have a hard time removing them because they may become corroded . Use a hacksaw or a rotary tool to take them off if you have trouble.

Step four: Rock the toilet bowl gently from side to side, you will break the seal on the bottom but that is ok. After the seal breaks, lift the toilet up and remove from the bathroom. Then clean the wax from the toilet flange and clean up the area if needed.

Step five: Install new toilet flange bolts in the holes on each side of the flange. Now, lower the new toilet onto the wax ring and make sure the bolts line up on both sides. Push down on the toilet and squeeze the wax ring so it allows the seal to become water tight.

Step six: If the toilet rocks slightly place shims under the toilet. Next put the washers and the nuts on the flange that sticks out and then tighten until they are secure. Make sure that you do not tighten too much because they will crack.

Step seven:  Next attach the toilet tank, you will need 2 bolts with rubber washers inside the tank and a rubber gasket that goes between the tank and the toilet.

Step eight: Now, reconnect the water supply to the base of the toilet tank and turn on the water. Make sure that nothing leaks. To finish up, change the toilet seat and put on the tank cover.

From time to time, virtually all homes with basements will have moisture problems or direct leaks in areas below grade. This does not necessarily mean that the home is poorly constructed.

Usually the problem is caused by improper grading that prevents water from effectively draining away from the foundation. Experience has shown that faults can also develop when gutters and downspouts get clogged, depositing unusually large quantities of water on the ground near the home.

How to recognize leaks or moisture problems

A leak is usually obvious, but other moisture problems can sometimes only be detected indirectly, such as finding mold (sometimes hidden by interior finishes) or detecting musty odors (usually when the area has been closed for a period).

Where does the moisture come from?

Outright leaks can occur under specific conditions, especially in early spring when melting snow can’t penetrate the frozen soil but finds its way down the side of the foundation where heat loss has made the soil permeable. Seepage, which is just a slow leak, can occur in the fall or spring when heavy rainfall or melting snow causes the ground near the foundation to become saturated. Homes built before 1950 seldom have weeping tiles to draw water away from the foundation, and in homes more than 20 years old these tiles may no longer be effective due to deterioration.

A significant source of basement moisture is condensation. When the basement air is humid, moisture will condense on cool surfaces, such as cold water pipes, foundation walls or the floor slab.

The telltale signs of moisture

• a musty odor
• a white powdery mineral deposit on masonry or concrete walls (this is called efflorescence)
• stains, discoloration or decay on window sills, sill plates, wood posts or even furniture or cardboard boxes stored in the basement
• bulging or lifting drywall tape, popped nails, bubbling or peeling paint and detaching wallpaper
• rust at the base of heating equipment, steel posts or appliances
• lifted floor tiles, buckled paneling, mildew on carpet

THIS IS AN EXCERPT FROM PILLAR TO POST ® HOME INFORMATION SERIES

This is the scenario:

I have a home under contract and I represent the seller.  The buyer has a home inspection performed and the inspector says there are 2 gas leaks.  One on the gas pipe before it gets to the meter and one inside the house above the water heater.

Of course, we immediately contact the Chattanooga Gas Company (a subsidiary of Atlanta Gas and Light) and report a leak.  The local tech is there quickly and finds no leaks but is unable to give anything in writing while in the field.  He gives the seller an 800 number in Atlanta to call for the "verbal report".

I contact them and am told that they will not release a report on their findings to me or to the owner without a court order.  What?!?!?!  Over the next three days I speak with many different people at the gas company to no avail. 

Finally I arrange to have the gas company, the inspector, the buyers agent and myself meet at the house yesterday morning.  Surprise, surprise, there are 2 leaks right where the inspector said they were. 

Now, my issue is what if the house exploded due to the gas leak that the gas company said wasn’t there the first time they went to investigate?  I think this is why you can’t get anything in writing from them.  They don’t want to own liability of their incompetance.  If anything had happened, my guess is that the gas company would have denied they ever investigated a leak there.  The public is in grave danger and are being lied to by the gas company! 

What do we do as customers?  I, personally, will never trust the gas company again.  If I suspect a leak I’m calling a plumber.